In short: a lamp shade should be about twice as wide as the widest part of the lamp base, and about two-thirds as tall as the base. Its bottom edge should hide the socket and hardware when you look at the lamp from a normal seated or standing position.
The three proportion rules
1. Width: the bottom of the shade should be roughly twice the width of the base at its widest point. A base 7 inches wide looks best under a shade about 14 inches across at the bottom.
2. Height: the shade should be about two-thirds the height of the base, measured from the bottom of the lamp to the bottom of the socket. A 15-inch base usually wants a shade about 10 inches tall.
3. Coverage: the bottom edge of the shade should sit low enough to hide the socket and the top of the harp, but high enough that you can still see the shape of the base. If you can see the bulb from the side, the shade is too short or sits too high.
These are rules of thumb. A slim candlestick base can take a shade wider than twice its width, and a very bulky base may need a slightly smaller shade so the lamp doesn't look top-heavy.
Quick size chart
Base height is measured from the bottom of the lamp to the bottom of the socket.
| Base height | Shade height | Shade bottom width |
|---|---|---|
| 10–12 in. | 7–8 in. | 10–12 in. |
| 13–16 in. | 9–10 in. | 12–14 in. |
| 17–20 in. | 11–12 in. | 14–16 in. |
| 21–24 in. | 13–15 in. | 16–18 in. |
| Floor lamp | 12–15 in. | 16–22 in. |
How to measure a shade
Lamp shades are usually listed as three numbers in inches, in this order: top diameter × bottom diameter × height (or slant).
- Top diameter: across the top opening.
- Bottom diameter: across the bottom opening.
- Slant: along the side of the shade from top edge to bottom edge. Some sellers list the vertical height instead, so check which one they mean.
A listing of 10 × 16 × 11 means a shade 10 inches across the top, 16 inches across the bottom and 11 inches tall or on the slant.
Fitter types
The fitter is how the shade attaches to the lamp. Check it before you buy.
- Spider fitter: the most common. The shade rests on top of a metal harp and is held by a finial. If your shade sits too high or too low, a taller or shorter harp fixes it.
- Uno fitter: a ring that fits around the socket, under the bulb. Common on smaller lamps and floor lamps.
- Clip-on: clips directly onto the bulb. Used for very small shades on chandeliers and mini lamps.
Shade shapes
- Drum: straight sides, top and bottom the same width. Modern and clean, and it throws light up and down evenly.
- Empire: narrow top, wide bottom. Traditional, and it sends more light downward, which is good for reading.
- Bell: curved sides that flare at the bottom. Classic and formal.
- Square or rectangle: suits square or angular bases and narrow tables.
A good general rule is to echo the base: round shades for round bases, square shades for square bases.
Placing the lamp
- Next to a sofa or chair: the bottom of the shade should be near eye level when you're sitting, which is usually about 38 to 42 inches from the floor. Any higher and the bulb glares in your eyes.
- On a nightstand: the bottom of the shade should be close to chin height when you're sitting up in bed.
- On a table: the shade shouldn't hang past the edge of the table, or it will get knocked.
Shade color and material
White and cream fabric shades give the most light and a soft, even glow. Linen adds texture. Dark or opaque shades push light up and down in strong pools, which looks dramatic in a moody room but won't light much of it. For a warmer, cozier room, pair a fabric shade with a 2700K bulb. More ideas are in how to make a room feel cozy, and for dark rooms in our dark academia decor guide.